Why the Swiss Watch Industry Needs a Revival
The Swiss watch industry is at a turning point, as revealed by Jonathan Brinbaum, Bulgari’s watch managing director. In recent discussions at Geneva Watch Days, he highlighted a troubling trend where watch exports reached CHF 25.6 billion in 2025, a decline of 1.7% from the previous year, despite a significant dip in the number of watches shipped compared to a decade ago. This phenomenon poses a unique challenge: how can brands balance value and volume in a changing market?
Understanding the Growing Divide Between Value and Volume
Brinbaum notes that many established brands may have to reconsider their role in light of emerging independent watchmakers, which signifies not just a shift in craftsmanship but also in consumer preferences. Collectors today are seeking complex and value-driven watches, while the volume of shipments has dwindled dramatically over the past 15 to 20 years. The challenge here is systemic; when brands suffer from reduced volume, suppliers—often smaller businesses—face the consequences. This could risk destabilizing the entire supply network, which serves both high-end watchmakers and the more affordable segments of the market.
The Key to Revitalizing Watchmaking: Innovation and Inclusivity
Brinbaum identifies three vital approaches to revitalize the sector. First, there is a pressing need for creativity and innovation in design. Established brands must rekindle their spirit of inventiveness to keep pace with newer players in the field. Second, women represent a significant growth area in watchmaking. As Brinbaum points out, many female buyers transition from jewelry to watches, a trend that the luxury market must embrace.
Looking to the Future: Engaging New Generations
Finally, the integration of genderless design reflects a societal shift rather than a fleeting trend. This change calls for brands to remain authentic and true to their core identities while catering to evolving consumer values. As Brinbaum aptly notes, today’s younger generation, even if accustomed to smartwatches, are likely to appreciate the allure of a luxury timepiece on their wrist.
In summary, the Swiss watch industry stands at a crossroad, with the promise of creativity, inclusivity, and authenticity offering pathways to stabilize and rejuvenate this historic craft. As consumers demand more distinct and valued offerings, the next steps taken now could pave the way for a bright future in luxury timepieces.
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